Look at the map, and you will see that Slovakia hits the sweet spot, conjugating and perfecting the alcoholic fermentation traditions of the continent. But first, a disclaimer: alcohol is bad. It is one of the worst drugs. However, it’s also true that the dose makes the poison: “All things are poison, and nothing is without poison; the dosage alone makes it so a thing is not a poison”, as Paracelsus said. So, if you drink, do it in moderation, be aware of the risks, and make it an exception, not the rule. Above all, do not harm.
Alcohol is an old companion of humanity, used for thousands of years in rituals and religions, playing a part in traditional customs all around the world. We should not brush aside the problems caused by alcohol, but it is also impossible to deny its importance in the cultures and rituals of most Western countries.
Slovakia is at the very center of Europe. For this reason, it has absorbed the influences and recipes of many different regions, becoming the meeting point for the oldest continent's most popular drinking products.
So, if you appreciate the history or taste of alcoholic beverages, Slovakia is the perfect place to broaden/expand/enhance your knowledge. I was surprised to learn that Slovaks are such wine fans: in the fall, they organize winemaking festivals with a lovely atmosphere in beautiful, extensive vineyards. Many family-run businesses participate in these festivals, where you can taste local wines unavailable for sale in stores and restaurants. This is the perfect opportunity to taste burčiak - fermented must. The stage between the freshly pressed grape juice and the mature wine produces a drink with a low alcohol content (about 4% to 6%) and a distinctive sweet and sour taste. Slovaks are rather partial to it, but what I like about these festivals are the events on the side: vineyards are lovely in the fall, with beautiful sunsets on the Slovak hills, and people go there with their families, bringing the children for a walk or a bike ride in the nature.
Apropos wine, I should mention a specific type of wine that is popular in Slovakia: “ríbezľové víno,” a wine made from red and black currants. Its deep red color is identical to that of grape wine, and the alcohol content is quite similar, around 10%, but the aroma and flavor are different and sweeter. The district of Devín, in the outskirts of Bratislava, is a beautiful rural area where the tradition of currant-wine-making is very much alive.
To kill two birds with one stone, I recommend timing your visit with the harvest festival to enjoy music, snacks, and currant wine on a lovely hill with a history of viticulture dating back to the 2nd century BC, right next to the ruins of an ancient castle.
But Slovakia's original gastronomic delicacy is beer. When I arrived, I was surprised to notice that beer here is not only pleasing but sometimes cheaper than bottled water!
Slovakia is a significant producer, and the most famous “pivo” (beer) in the country (and the most exported) is Zlatý Bažant. To this day, it is one of the most appreciated and prolific brands, with many products and varieties, including non-alcoholic beers and radlers (beer mixed with lemonade or fruit juices). This brand is a common choice for Slovaks, but its enjoyed beyond Slovakia. This beer brand is also exported to the United States and Canada under the translated name Golden Pheasant.
Corgoň is another famous brand and one of the oldest national beers. It was founded in Nitra and proudly named after a local blacksmith and legendary hero during the Turkish occupation of Slovakia. There is even a big statue dedicated to Corgoň in Nitra! Its design and marketing are based on the cliché of the manly man. It features a strong man, the anvil, and catchphrases about the bitterness of beer and life:
“Tak horký ako má byť”, meaning “As bitter as it should be”, or
“Veci majú byť jasné, pivo má byť horké”, “Things must be clear, beer must be bitter”.
These mottos are pretty representative of the Slovak drinking attitude, I have to say.
Zlatý Bažant and Corgoň are now part of the Heineken group, although they are still produced in Slovakia.
But there is another brewery with a peculiar history. ERB was founded in the mining city of Banská Štiavnica, where, in the Middle Ages, numerous breweries were directly run and owned by miners. This brewing tradition was kept alive until today by the locals, as the last owner, who died in 2022, was a mining engineer who managed to expand the brand but rejected offers to export the original production abroad, wanting to keep ERB linked to Slovakia, “So tourists can say, I was in a country where they brew great beer”.
This kind of dedication says something about the importance of drinks in Slovakia, for better or worse.
Author: Luca Trifiletti
Comments